Sketches of Perthshire


( The Rev P Graham (1812 )

From The North By Dunblane

The great road ,which furnishes a communication between north and south of Scotland  , passes  through Dunblane . In coming from Perth , the nearest  route  is by Auchterarder , in the vicinity of  which , by the roadside ,stands  the ancient cemetery of  the noble  family of Montrose. This road  is soon to be made a turnpike . Crieff is a neat village  , picturesquely situated  , and furnishing comfortable  accommodations  to the stranger .

Should he have the leisure to enjoy in detail ,the beautiful and sublime scenery of this neighbourhood , he will do well to extend  his excursion , by the vale of Erne , to the opening of the lake of that name , the distance from Crieff  being about twelve miles.He will remark several elegant seats in his course , particularly Ochtertyre ,the residence of Sir Patrick Murray Bart. ; and Drummond Castle the mansion of the Honourable  Mr Burrell Drummond . Passing the village of Comrie , in the very emboucheure of the Highlands , about two miles , he arrives  at Dunira , the romantic seat of Lord Viscount Melville , and the creation of his ever- to- be- revered father .Nature and art have happily combined in the embellishment of Dunira . Nature has given lofty mountains , precipitous rocks , waving woods , and a beautiful river. All that taste and genius could  suggest is added ; an  elegant house and garden , flourishing plantations judiciously disposed , and a lawn , which , in the very bosom of rugged rocks  and mountains , surprise the eye  by its  extent, contribute  to render this one of the most interesting places in the Highlands of Scotland . To give some idea of the extent  of the pleasure grounds of Dunira , it may be added , that it is  reckoned that there are  about thirty miles of gravel walks and artificial foot- paths , with fog  or moss houses  at convenient distances , within their bounds . On the higher eminences , by the side of the foot- paths, the arbutus uva  ursi , of such use as an astringent medicine  , may be found in great profusion .

But it may  be permitted to remark , that in contemplating this favourite  residence  of our late lamented statesman and patriot , so justly his country’s pride , some feelings of  a higher order  than the mere admiration  of scenery , however magnificent , will irresistibly  rush upon the mind .When we call to our  recollection attempts which were made , soon after the French Revolution  to involve us in similar  anarchy , and when we consider the means by which , under the favour of a kind Providence , we have been rescued  from this ruin ; when we look around us at the moment to the wreck of empires  which is exhibited  upon the continent of Europe ; and when we consider the proud  pre- eminence which Britain still maintains amongst nations , can we forget that it was William Pitt , seconded and supported by his  undaunted and energetic  friend Henry Dundas , who stemmed  the torrents of  revolution in our country , and laid the foundation of that security which we now enjoy ? Whilst the feeling  of this security and independence  , which the contemplation of your yet unimpaired constitution  inspires , remains among Britons  , the memor of Henry Lord Melville will live . The  meed of those also , who had the honour of  co- operating  in the public  measures  of those  great men , will be rich in the estimation of posterity , and precious  to their own minds .
Lochearn is about seven miles long. There is a good road , by both sides of the lake , to Lochearnhead .  ; its surface is about 300 feet  above the level of the sea ; it is  for the most  beautifully skirted with coppice  wood . On the southside , Ben Vorlich  towers  majestically  to the height of  3000 feet  above the level of the lake Ardvorlich House - the seat of Sir William Stewart ,Esq. Is situated on the margin of the lake , at the very base of the mountain . On the north east  shoulder of Ben Vorlich , the botanist  will find  that rare plant the azelia procumbens , in a profusion which does  not often occur . The  Minutest of all the British shrubs is said  to sell among the London  nurserymen  and florists  at half  a guinea each plant . At this rate the laird of Ardvorlich may make more by an acre of this shoulder of his mountain , than can possibly  be made by an acre  of the richest land in Britain .

By either side of Loch Earn , the tourist may proceed  to Lochearnhead , where he will meet  with comfortable accommodations. He may find his way  to the same place from Killin  by a good road  through Glen Ogle , of  about eight miles . From Lochearnhead  he may proceed to Callander , by Balquhidder . In this route , he will be gratified with many interesting objects .The vale of Balquhidder is traversed through its whole course , by the water of Balvac ( or the silent , from the tranquillity of its current . ) At its western extremity , a little beyond the church , Loch Voil opens , and Luich duine is joined to it on the west  by a narrow channel . These lakes  are bounded  on each side by lofty precipitous  mountains , affording  rich sheep pasture.

From Lochearnhead  to Callander is 13 ¾ miles ; the road through Strathire by the northern bank  of Lochlubnaig is  excellent , and the surrounding scenery delightful  ;about mid-way down the lake , we pass Ardchullerie , where Mr Bruce of Kinnaird  resided for  some years  for the sake of retirement , whilst engaging in composing  the valuable account of his travels in Abyssinia, relieving the severity of his studies  occasionally  with rural sports , for which this romantic spot is so admirably calculated . Just opposite to Ardchullerie , Benledi bathes , as it were , its sable  skirts  in the gulf below , which seems  to be  tinged  with its  solemn hue .

Without anticipating , however, the description of  Benledi , which seems  more properly  to belong  to an excursion from Callander , let it suffice  to say  that the road  from Balquhidder  by Lochlubnaig , passes  by St Bride’s chapel , through the pass of Leny , to that village .

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