A Crime Against Our Gaelic Heritage

A genealogical trip to Kintyre with an incredible outcome . 



It is quite amazing how many of us are unaware of our past. Most do not realise that many of our ancestors experienced more than a few attacks on their own heritage . Both my parents  died at a  comparatively young  age and being an only child , I found that I was largely ignorant of  my own “ roots “.

My maternal grandmother Annabella Lamont ( maiden name McFarlane )was  born in Glasgow . She  died some ten years  before I was born and I knew  very little  about her or her back ground . A little  digging  and delving in the records  gradually allowed me  to build up a picture  of the family I  did not know .Annabella’s parents  were Mary and Archibald McFarlane ,who were in fact cousins ! Archibald had married  an Anne McLean . They were both  from the Parish of Kilcalmonell in Kintyre , Argyll . Archie  was  described in the Census returns as a “ spirit dealer “ and  moved with Ann to Glasgow around 1845. Both were Gaelic speakers and although described in the Census as being unable  to read or  write one has  to remember that that statement refers  to one’s ability in the English language . Ann died in her early forties without having borne any children.  Archie appears  to have  returned  to his  native soil  to the  small village of Clachan  in Kintyre on the west coast of Argyll. His  cousin Mary was in service in Campbeltown and the two married in 1864 . She was 31 years  old  and some 11 years younger than Archie . They  settled back in Glasgow and in the 1881 Census  were living in the Gorbals district of the City at 179 Crown Street . Surprisingly this is   only  a very  short  distance  from where I attended school at Hutchesons’ Grammar in the 1950s ! Little did I know this at the time . The Gorbals  had a somewhat tarnished reputation as a violent , overcrowded area troubled  with  the notorious razor  gangs of the mid Wars period . When Archie and Mary were  bringing up  their family in the 1860s.70s and 80s it was a somewhat overcrowded area populated  by a cosmopolitan mix  of Irish , Highland Scots  and interestingly the first influx of Jewish people  from Germany , Poland  and Russia . I can recall my mother telling  me  when I had  just started “ Hutchie “ about the Gorbal’s grocer’s  shop where Archie McFarlane Jr  worked  and how they stood outside  to watch the arrival of these dark and strangely dressed Jewish immigrants . A somewhat parallel passage of history to that of 1970s and ‘80s !




                                                             Gorbals Main Street 1860


Archie and Mary had five children living with them in Crown Street in 1881 . Annabella aged 15  and working as a milliner ( hat maker ) , Archibald aged 14 – a grocer’s shop keeper  , Elizabeth  aged 12  - at school ,Mary aged  10 – at school and Duncan , the  youngest at 8 and at school . Annabella was bi lingual  in Gaelic and English . Perhaps not surprising as  both parents had Gaelic as their first language .I recall my mother telling  me  that Annabella as a  young  girl  used  to help an elderly neighbour in an adjoining flat . That lady from a Highland village  spoke only Gaelic and no English ! Hardly credible in this day and age |.

Things must have been tough  in this small flat/apartment with so many .Archie , the father  was now  no longer  working as a “ spirit  merchant “ but as  a general labourer in the docks that lined  the shores of the Clyde in those far of days ! Sadly Archie a few  years later of “ apoplexy “ aged 56. Apoplexy was a Victorian term used  to indicate a sudden loss of consciousness and a bleeding of the internal organs .

This a brief  synopsis  of  my McFarlanes and their life in Glasgow . I would now like  to determine more  about their home in far off  Argyll and  examine what life  there  would have  been like in the mid 19th Century .

The McFarlanes were a big family and  worked and lived mainly in the north of the Parish of Kilcalmonell . Archibald McFarlane , my great grand father had  been born at Duppin , south of the town of Tarbert. The family  were  describes as cottars – small  farmers – and had been there for many generations . His uncle Duncan McFarlane had also been a cottar and lived  initially in the attractive small village of Whitehouse . This was mentioned  by  my  mother when I was quite young . The picture shown here clearly illustrates the layout – a  village green with small stone cottages on either  side . These  would originally have been heather  clad but this  had given way to the  characterless slate or clad in the somewhat unattractive corrugated iron sheeting  if used as storage accommodation . Duncan and family moved down the road  to the aptly named village of   Clachan – an attractive little place facing onto the Atlantic and giving spectacular  views across to the Paps of Jura and a superb example of nature at its  best as the grey seals  play in their hundreds  off the close by Ronnachan Point .Duncan became the tenant Landlord of the  local inn/ pub in a property still standing  there called Shanakill . The  date, as far as I can ascertain would have  been  circa 1826 as  his son Dugald had been born in Whitehouse in October  1825 and his  son Archibald in Shenakill in August 1827 This was unfortunately not the best time to establish a business in the Scottish Highlands and in particular  on the West Coast  where the cottars / crofters  were highly dependent on the fickle herring plus a staple diet  of potatoes  . Nature was not   on their  side as the fish moved  to places  new a fungus  attacked  the tatties in the ground . Duncan and his rapidly expanding family were , to put it mildly , in a  somewhat insecure position . My great  grandmother Mary McFarlane was their  seventh child , born in Shenakill in 1833. It would have  been fascinating  to have  chatted  to her  about  life in this  Highland village and have found out just how many trials and tribulations  were so close  to hand . James Hunter’s excellent book “ Insurrection- Scotland’s Famine Winter “ gives a  graphic  account  of Highland Scotland in 1846 .The potato crop had been wiped out by blight and a huge relief  effort came o late  to prevent starvation and death Protests escalated throughout the Highlands  in protest  at the cost  of the oatmeal That had  replaced  potatoes  as people’s basic  food stuff .

The  Statistical Accounts are a somewhat unique record of  economic and social conditions in the whole of  Scotland prepared , it  should  be  said , at the instigation of the Established  Church of Scotland  . It  does  not  include the other member states of the United Kingdom . This synopsis is taken from the Wikipedia and is a fair  analysis of the two Accounts  that were taken in the 1790s and the 1840s:

Sir John Sinclair of Ulbster had studied German state surveys and wished to use what he called for the first time these “statistical” methods to measure the quantum of happiness that existed in the nation and find ways of improving this. In this he was a remarkable example of Enlightenment idealism at work. He stressed the empirical ideal of that age by lauding its anxious attention to the facts and he set about completing the work left unachieved by the previous attempt mentioned above. The results are crucial to an understanding of Scotland on the eve of both the Industrial Revolution and the French Revolution.r

In 1790, Sir John sent structured questionnaires to over 900 parish ministers, covering the whole country. This contained 160 questions in 4 sections, namely

Geography and topography

Population

Agricultural and Industrial production

Miscellaneous questions

There were follow up questions in Appendices – six new questions in 1790 and four more in 1791. The general response was excellent, though the length and quality of submissions varied greatly, as can be seen by comparing those for two East Lothian parishes , Whittingehame (9 pages with detailed tables) and Stenton (2 pages of minimal information). Since the survey was not complete, Sir John sent out Statistical Missionaries in 1796 . The project was finished by June 1799, though much had already been published, and Sir John was able to lay before the General Assembly a detailed portrait of the nation. Taken as a whole, the reports are of inestimable historical value. Some are excellently written by ministers who were themselves meticulous Enlightenment scholars (see for example the response by the Rev Dr James Meek for the Parish of Cambuslang in Lanarkshire).

What then is the relevance of this to my McFarlanes and the other Gaelic speaking  people of Clachan and Kintyre ? Finance or rather  lack of it had seen education , particularly  in  Highland areas .The attitude held  by the vast  majority of Presbyterian ministers and indeed many members of their  flock especially in the Lowland  regions was quite narrow and very parochial in the  extreme , showing little of  Christian good will and understanding towards their Gaelic  speaking countrymen.

Funding for  Highland schools  came  mainly through a body known as the SSPCK - the Scottish Society  for the Promotion of Christian Knowledge . This  was in reality a  bunch of  middle class Edinburgh based  do gooders  who in reflection  totally misrepresented themselves in a total denigration  of Gaelic Society. In Clachan where  my great grandmother Mary McFarland  attended school with  her siblings  the only  person  who spoke English was the head  teacher ! English  was a language at that time was  not spoken or  understood by his pupils ! The Second Statistical Account published in the 1840s was quite blunt “ The Gaelic is the language of the Parishioners but the English is displacing it- and the sooner it overmasters it ,the better “ In Clachan , pupils  were beaten if  caught speaking Gaelic at school , something which seemed  to prevail in  more than few Highland places of education .

The fall in the population in Kintyre , or  specifically the Parish of Kilcalmonell and Kilberry , was a fundamental reason for the decline in Gaelic heritage .It had not increased since 1821 owing particularly to the high level of emigration to the  Americas ( the US and Canada ) .This  forced emigration  had been subsidised by the Government . The  inability of the indigenous Gaelic  Scots to meet  higher  rent requirements from falling resources saw  the inevitable  movement either overseas  or to the “ Low Country “ that was  the rapidly expanding Central Belt and Glasgow city . The  situation had  been exacerbated prior  to this  by the  new landlord - the Dukes of Argyll who as  reward for their services  to the anti Jacobite powers  had  received rewards  including that of the lands of Kintyre  where their  dreaded  foes  - The MacDonalds - Lords of the Isles- had  been unceremoniously removed .




The Clachan Kirks


It is  clear  why my ancestors left  this lovely land . It was not  for any other  reason than  necessity with  perhaps a bit of opportunism thrown in ! The family were split Duncan and Annabella were  evicted  from Shenakill  for  non payment of rent  and returned  to the family croft up the road  in Whitehouse . Dugald McFarlane the second oldest sibling  sailed  from Liverpool to Australia  and participated in the 1851 Ballarat Gold Rush - married a lass from Northern Ireland raised a big family and never returned .Elizabeth my great gran’s older sister married  an Archibald McBeath, a gamekeeper  from Athol in Perthshire . A descendant became  head keeper to the Colquhoun’s of Luss . Duncan , his brother, moved  to the Edinburgh area  as a gardener , moved to Peebles , became a coal merchant , lived  and died in Peebles .His  brother Colin became a gardener and moved to East Lothian . His great grandson Tom Middlemass farms Mid Markle  near Haddington and has  become  a friend of  mine over the years. Peter  McFarlane  was a wood sawyer, married and raised a large  family and settled in Glasgow . Duncan the Innkeeper died in Campbelltown in 1863 aged 72 and his  wife Annabella died in Peebles in 1874 aged 84 .

One can see from the above tale that the family was  not  destroyed but  adapted and moved  elsewhere from their native soil .. What happened  to their Gaelic roots  and culture is another story. I  am afraid  much must have  been assimilated into to the prevailing lifestyle of their new domicile . Let  me  however add a brief addendum to this tale .

I visited Kintyre together  with faithful companion “ Murphy “ my Jack Russell terrier We  took in Whitehouse , Clachan and Killean . A  memorable  if  too short a trip . But a trip which allowed  me  to take in the beauty and charm of this quiet part of our Highlands ,

In researching my McFarlane  ancestry some  twenty years ago I made contact with  Ian MacDonald , a local historian and expert in all that is Kintyre . Where abouts  did  Ian live ? Shanakill in Clachan - the old inn where Duncan had been landlord ! Ian had in his possession a lot of old  papers  concerning the eviction of the family from the dwelling ! The other bit of information was quite unbelievable ! 

You will recall that Mary McFarlane my great grandmother had  married  her cousin Archibald McFarlane  who had  been born at Duppin in the north of the Parish . Mary and Archibald shared a common grandfather , Duncan McFarlane  born at Duppin about 1750 . Duppin has  long been abandoned and is in reality now a mere  pile of  stones  where the old steadings  stood .Ian  was quite slow  to expand . “ Popular  place Duppin these days  with all those  visitors  from across the Pond “, he quietly spoke  to me . I hesitated not  quite sure what he was getting at . Ian continued : “ You know that President Ronald Reagan has  been checking out his  roots and that although his Reagan side  came  from Northern Ireland , he had a strong Scottish connection on the other  side . His great grandmother  was a Jane Blue . Blue  may not sound it - but it is  pure Scottish  coming from the small island of Colonsay and also Kintyre . Jane Blue’s  mother was Catherine McFarlane   from Duppin  who married  Donald Blue . Catherine was in probability the daughter of Duncan McFarlane born in Duppin about 1750 “ . The penny dropped . Ronald Reagan -

Aka “ The Gipper “- was  my long lost cousin !





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